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Where a feature of my garden described in these page is illustrated by a photograph on the Flickr Web site, I placed a camera icon
that is a link to that photograph. The link will open a new window or tab in your Web browser.
A "volunteer" plant is merely a weed that is interesting.
Oak Park is a community in Ventura County, California, between the cities of Thousand Oaks, Simi Valley, Westlake Village, and Agoura Hills. On the lower slope of the south face of Simi Peak within the Santa Monica Mountains, the climate is Mediterranean. Sunset classifies Oak Park within zone 21 — an interior area with some ocean influence, on a slope away from which cold air drains in the winter — very near zone 19 (which gets more winter chill). This is USDA zone 10a.
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April and May may have clear, sunny, warm days — even heat waves with temperatures over 90°F. June, however, has many days that are cloudy, gray, and cool. If the sun shines, it might be hazy, tempered by high fog. June sometimes brings drizzles and mists enough to require using wipers while driving but not enough to be measurable precipitation.
This June gloom might start in May and last into July.
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Summers are warm to hot with no measurable rain: Daytime highs in the range of 85-95°F are common, with some days as high as 105°F. Nighttime lows may be in the range of 55-70°. Rain may be completely absent from early May to mid-November.
Winters are cool with some rain: Daytime highs range from 55°F to the 75°F. Nighttime lows around 45°F are common with at least some nights each year dipping to 25°F. Rain generally falls mid-November to mid-April and may amount to less than 10 inches (drought) to 25 inches (very wet). Snow is rare, falling perhaps once in five or ten years and even more rarely lasting on the ground more than a few hours. In over 30 years, I recall only one killing frost. Lighter frosts, however, occur several nights in a row each winter.
In the summer, late-afternoon breezes are generated when the rocky south face of Simi Peak bakes in the sun. Around 3:30-4:00 in the afternoon, the resulting thermal updraft draws cooling ocean air from Oxnard, 25 miles away to the west. Although the Pacific is only 10 miles away to the south in Malibu, intervening ridges of the Santa Monica Mountains block breezes from that direction. In the winter, the sloping terrain causes cold air to drain away, minimizing frost damage.
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Strong, dry winds from the north-east — the dreaded Santa Ana winds — plague southern California every year, generally from mid-fall through the winter (although they can occur at any time of the year). These are caused by cold, high-pressure air masses over the Great Basin area of Nevada and Utah. As the air descends into lower altitudes, it warms by compression, which increases its capacity for holding moisture. However, this air is descending through an arid region. Thus, by the time it reaches southern California, it can be very dry. October temperatures over 100°F with relative humidity below 10% or even below measurement are possible.
Winds are strong and constant; where funneled by canyons and passes, gusts of 50 mph or more are common. While my garden is partially shielded from the Santa Anas by My Hill, I still must use bird mesh to hold the mulch in place around my oak tree in front. During a Santa Ana condition, the wind may blow steadily from the north-east for several days without interruption. However, the wind sometimes seems absent, with hot, dry air creeping towards the ocean so slowly that that it seems calm. In any case, the extreme low humidity sucks moisture out of plants and soil — and out of my skin.
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Simi Peak is about 2,700 feet above sea level. Oak Park High School (in the middle of the community) is about 1,700 feet. The hills surrounding Oak Park are public park lands, owned either by the Rancho Simi Recreation and Park District (an independent local government agency) or by the National Park Service. These hills have been left substantially in a natural state. Wildlife includes mountain lions, raccoons, coyotes, skunks, rabbits, squirrels, deer, owls, hawks, golden eagles, snakes, frogs, and many song birds. Oaks, sycamores, willows, and cottonwoods grow in a chaparral environment. From these open spaces, snakes, frogs, rodents, and weeds find easy access into our gardens.
The soils tend to be adobe (heavy clay). When dry, it may be impossible to dig into adobe with a spade. When wet, adobe will not let go of a spade. As it goes from dry to wet, the soil swells like bread dough rising, wreaking havoc with paving and foundations. As it goes from wet to dry, the soil shrinks but not necessarily lowering into their original places those structures it raised when wet. Soils, local water, and imported water (by aqueduct from northern California or the Colorado River) all tend to be alkaline. According to the 1997 annual water-quality report from the Oak Park Water Service, the average pH is 7.9; the alkalinity is equivalent to 0.1 g/L of CaCO3. (Sometimes, we might even look on acid rain as a benefit to our gardens.)
When I lived with my parents, I would rather trip on a weed than pull it. About a month after I bought my first house (a year after I was married), my wife complained about how unpleasant bare dirt looked in front. I started reading about gardening. It has become a hobby that absorbs so much of my attention that today (more than 45 years later) she wonders why she ever said anything.
Our house sits on a standard suburban residential lot. (In California, the zoning code is R1.) The lot is about 90 feet deep. Since it is on the outside of a broad curve in the street, it tapers from about 75 feet wide in front (south) to 85 feet in back (north). In the back is a steep slope up to the lots on the next street to the north; I can stand at the top of My Hill and inspect the roof of my two-story house (but only in the winter when The Tree is dormant). Including the slope and the "footprint" of my house, I have not quite a quarter-acre.
Most of my gardening is guided by Sunset's Western Garden Book, which I normally keep by my computer so it will be handy when browsing the gardening newsgroup. My favorite tools are a hook-and-blade pruning shears, a three-gallon galvanized pail, and a paring knife. The shears are obvious. The pail is used to mix potting soil, for collecting weeds, for soaking flower pots, and for carrying other tools. The knife is great for weeding (cutting the roots before pulling the tops) and making cuttings (and then making the holes in the potting mix where I insert the cuttings).
I selected perennials, shrubs, and trees for my garden. I also have naturalizing bulbs and bulb-like plants (i.e., bulbs that come back year after year without having to be replanted). Except for a couple of herbs and an occasional vegetable, I do not use annuals. I even have perennial vegetables: artichoke and asparagus. Yes, perennials take as much effort to grow as annuals. However, annuals require the effort to be expended in very short bursts while it appears to me that the effort for perennials is spread out across the year.
Like domestic animals, our food plants have changed through the centuries because of selection and hybridizing. Although many botanists and archaeologists believe the wild ancestor of corn still survives in the wilds of Mexico or Central America, they have trouble recognizing it because the corn we eat is now so different. Likewise, our ornamental plants no longer resemble their natural relatives. Even many old "heritage" roses are unlike wild roses. If I am to grow unnatural plants in my garden, I cannot succeed if I dogmatically use only natural methods.
Compounding the situation, the native plants of this area — chaparral — are suited for an environment of periodic wildfire; and they contribute readily to that environment by having almost flammable growth above ground. Planting chaparral close to a house is illegal here. I do have many plants native to Mediterranean climates — hot (at least warm), dry summers and mild, wet winters — but they seem to expect more rainfall than our arid climate provides. Thus, I must artificially irrigate my garden, growing unnatural plants in an unnatural environment.
No, I do not reject the entire approach of organic gardening. Neither do I reject the products of the modern American chemical industry. When my plants need nitrogen, I may use either blood meal or ammonium sulfate, depending on the plant, time of the year, and location in my garden. I also use both bone meal and super-phosphate. My compost is really closer to leaf mold, based primarily on leaves from my oak, ash, and zelkova; I add urea or ammonium sulfate to speed the composting process. While I hang unwanted CDs (mostly AOL) from my peach tree and grape vines to discourage birds, I also use chemical pesticides on those fruits to keep wasps and ants from destroying my crop. Yes, I spray my garden … but very selectively and only for very specific reasons. I strongly disapprove of indiscriminate spraying just because some advertisement said their poison was so great. What works works.
Several places in these Web pages, I mention my trees. Here is an inventory.
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I try to identify plants in my garden with their botanical (scientific) names, using Sunset's Western Garden Book (2001 edition) as the source. Botanical names are required by law when plants are sold in inter-state commerce. I indicate botanical names with Italics.*** End Right Sidebar ***
I often see misnomers (the wrong name) applied to a plant and malaprops (an inappropriate word) used in on-line discussions about gardening. Sometimes, the message contains a complaint that the writer could not find a particular plant after an exhaustive search. Of course, searching is generally more productive if the right name is used.
When responding to a message with one of these errors in the Subject line, it is very easy to correct it. If you make that correction without explicitly calling it to the attention of the originator, you will show both intelligence (you know the correct term) and courtesy (you did not tell the rest of the world what a dumb error the originator made).
Last updated 17 April 2009
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